Angélus & Haut-Brion Vertical Tasting

It’s always a great experience to attend a vertical tasting of a top Bordeaux producer. But to have the opportunity to enjoy vertical tastings of TWO top Bordeaux producers is both unique and special. And when those two producers are Château Angélus and Château Haut-Brion, you’re talking about a once-in-a-lifetime tasting experience. The event was hosted by Victoire Touton and Delphine Blanchot, the representatives of Angélus and Haut-Brion, respectively. The venue itself was ideal for such a great tasting, the Wine Watch wine bar in Fort Lauderdale. This new wine bar offers not only a great setting for a tasting, but also some fantastic food for pairing as well.

This was a ‘collector’s event,’ where each attendee brought a bottle from their own cellar. In total, there were eight vintages of Angélus and seven vintages of Haut-Brion (two white and five red).

IMG_40521988 Angélus Light ruby color. Certainly a charmer, with its dark fruit, curry, herbs, truffle, and leather on the nose. Had good complexity, but nowhere near the 1989 and 1990. Not as much tension on the palate. Overall light and easy-drinking. A medium length finish, but the tannins stood out a bit. Obviously lacked the balance of the 1989 and 1990. Now is the time to drink this, as this bottle indicates it may be on its decline. – 92/100


1989 Angélus A true beauty, that showed off matured, layered aromatics and excellent balance on the palate. After a couple of hours of aeration, this wine really came together. This was the consensus favorite wine of the tasting among the 18 attendees. The nose showed lots of depth, with ripe cassis, plum, damp leather, truffle, and espresso. Powerful and dense on the palate, but didn’t quite exhibit the intensity of the 1990. The wine was equally good on the nose and the palate. Really nice freshness on the finish, which lingered with beautiful plummy and earthy notes. Tannins well-integrated. Whereas the 1990 just kept emerging during the tasting, this 1989 stayed solid and consistent throughout the evening. It never lost steam or closed down at all. This wine is in a perfect spot for drinking now. – 95/100

1990 Angélus This wine was quite interesting, as it changed considerably throughout the evening. At first, I wasn’t certain that this was a good representative of the 1990. The nose certainly took awhile to open up, but when it did, it dazzled. The nose showed off a beautiful earthiness that married well with the ripe plum and blackberry. Along with this, there was truffle, eucalyptus, anise, and tobacco. This slightly edged out the 1989 on the palate, with its elegance and incredible length. The finish left you with soft tannins and a fresh acidity that completed a seriously good tasting experience.- 96/100

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1994 Angélus A bit outmatched on this evening, this wine just lacked the interest and complexity found in stronger vintages. The nose was shy and reticent, with the fruit peeking through. One thing I love about Angélus is how well the truffle and herbs complement the fruit so well. This was not so with this vintage, as the tertiary development seems stunted. Light on its feet on the palate. Showing some age with its garnet color and lightened edges. Noticeable tannins but lacking a bit of freshness on the finish. On its own, this was a nice wine that still provides pleasure. It will just never achieve the heights of vintages such as 1989, 1990, or even 1995. – 90/100

1995 Angélus Easily one of my favorite wines of the evening. This showed off the beautiful truffled earthiness, barnyard, dark plum, cassis, cigar tobacco, and dark chocolate. Sweet on the palate, and very elegant. Soft tannins for a 1995 from Bordeaux. In fact, bottles I had from only a year ago seemed much more tight and tannic. Perhaps it’s finally starting to soften. There’s also great acidity and impressive length on the finish. I’m starting to really expect big things from this wine. – 95/100

1998 Angélus Perhaps surprisingly, the 1998 wasn’t on the same level as the 1995. The nose was quite aromatic and inviting, with plum, black cherry, soy, all-spice, and fresh flowers. It was quite an exotic and spicy nose. Quite generous on the palate, but not quite the concentration I would expect in this vintage. Very good length and nicely structured. This obviously still needs more time for everything to synthesize on the palate. Perhaps give this another 2-3 years, and hope it follows the same trajectory as the 1995. – 93/100

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2004 Angélus Drinking quite well out of the gate. Had a nice sensual smoothness and soft mouthfeel. The oak is still noticeable, but doesn’t stick out too much. Lots of cassis, blueberry, curry, leather, violets, earth, and coffee. Good complexity and concentration. At this point, it’s more interesting on the nose than the palate. Nicely textured with a smooth finish, round tannins, and medium acidity. Compared to other right bank wines from 2004, this is truly a nice effort. I expect this to reach its peak in the next 5+ years, but there’s no question that it’s good to drink now. – 92/100

2009 Angélus For a wine this young, this is really drinking quite nicely and is completely approachable. I actually expected the oak to be more dominant, but it didn’t stick out much. The fruit was big, ripe, and in the forefront. The plum and blueberry was so incredibly ripe and juicy, along with fresh herbs, violets, anise, spice, and espresso. Full-bodied, powerful, and with good tannin integration. The tannic structure is obvious, but it’s just so well-balanced. Medium level of acidity and freshness. The finish was long and full of fruit. I did detect a touch of heat as well. Overall, this young wine held its own, even in the face of a number of fully mature and charming wines. – 94/100

IMG_4001.JPG1985 Haut-Brion Blanc Deep golden color. Lots of tertiary development, with the nose showing a bit of mustiness. Lemon, some brioche, and nuttiness. Appeared somewhat oxidized on the nose. Freshness fading a bit. Was this an ideal specimen? If so, then it’s seen better days. – 90/100

2003 Haut-Brion Blanc It’s always a treat to try an Haut-Brion blanc. This 2003 was fresh and with generous fruit. On the nose, there was lemon, fresh flowers, and hazelnut. Appeared somewhat early in its evolution. Really fresh finish with bright acidity. – 93/100

IMG_40691994 Haut-Brion Light ruby color. Not terribly interesting, especially compared to the other wines in the tasting. There was a nice mix of black currant, pencil shavings, cigar box, and leather on the nose. Austere on the palate. Didn’t possess the smokiness and Graves character that I’ve found in the 1994 La Mission. Straightforward and easy to drink, I would probably drink this over the next 5 years. – 91/100

1995 Haut-Brion My favorite Haut-Brion of the tasting, this 1995 definitely showed up. Floral, leathery, smoky, and with nice minerality, this just kept improving and showing off its complexity throughout the evening. Silky textured and with excellent balance overall. Tannins were round and integrated well. Seemed to gain weight in the glass. Great balance of acidity with the fruit. This wine has definitely improved in the past couple of years, and I expect it to reach its peak in the next 5-10 years. – 94/100

1996 Haut-Brion This was definitely an off-bottle, though it wasn’t tainted. It was certainly too advanced for a 1996. The aromatics showed off cassis, earth, damp leather, and library book. It lacked overall complexity on the palate, but had a nice fresh finish. Tannins were also in check. Again, not a good representative of 1996 Haut-Brion. – 90/100

IMG_4003.JPG2003 Haut-Brion A solid performance for such a young wine. Not showing the heat of the vintage with any overripeness, this wine showing off excellent balance. The black currant was ripe and fresh, along with lots of spiciness, musk, cigar tobacco, and leather. Not a blockbuster on the palate, but nothing seemed out of place. I was impressed with the length and softness of the finish. The question with this wine will be longevity. How will it fare compared to others from 2003? My sense is that this hasn’t peaked yet, and will get better. – 93/100

2008 Haut-Brion Okay, so while this is somewhat approachable, it is way too young now and far from maturity. The fruit was incredibly ripe, with plum, blackberry, and blueberry. Other aromatic components were fresh tobacco, clove, coffee, and smoke. Oak was still apparent. Nicely structured with firm tannins. Young on the palate and very fruit-driven. Impressive length on the finish. This wine needs more time. And while you can certainly drink this now, I probably wouldn’t touch this for 8-10 years, as it will improve considerably. – 94/100

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First Growth Tasting – 1982 to 1996

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Tasting a first growth wine is always a special experience, regardless of the vintage. Even in weaker vintages, you are tasting the height of winemaking and the best the terroir was capable of that year. So of course we were extremely excited to participate in a first growth tasting to compare many of these exceptional wines. When you are tasting many high-end wines simultaneously, it is easy to lose sight of the fact that they are all great wines that could all impress on their own. But when you taste these first growth wines together, you really learn to find subtle nuances that make some stand out more than others. At this tasting, there was also a ‘mini-vertical’ of Château Margaux, that included four of the strongest vintages from 1982 to 1996; the stylistic differences among the vintages was evident, but the variability in vintage also allowed us to see the continuum of wine maturation. But as is often said, “There are no great wines, only great bottles,” we found on this night that there were many great bottles indeed.


 

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1982 Château Margaux: For much of the evening, it was difficult to decide whether or not this was better than the 1983. It seemed to have an intensity that built in the glass over time, gaining more aromatics and overall balance. There was beautiful black currant, violets, green pepper, and tobacco. Tannins are nicely integrated but are still present. A silky mouthfeel, with more elegance than power. A medium length finish that isn’t memorable but harmonizes well with the overall experience. There are still some years left here, and the fruit is robust.

1983 Château Margaux: Initially, this nose was much more perfumed and open than the 1982. With time, this shifted as the nose became a bit shy. More spiciness and earthiness than the 82. Both dark and red fruits, mushroom, green pepper, violets, and menthol round out the aromatics. A similar style to the 82, with more elegance than raw power. An appealing mouthfeel with good weight, some of which was lost with more time in the glass. Still fairly tannic, certainly more so than the 82. A medium length finish. Will be interesting to see if the the fruit fades before the tannins resolve. I would drink this fairly soon if you have it, though the fruit should last for the near future.

1986 Château Margaux: The consensus least favorite wine of the evening. The vintage really showed through, with harsh tannins and fading fruit. Interestingly, the color is still good, showing dark ruby. Perhaps the tannins were masking the fruit, which is the best-case scenario. A bit acidic on the finish. Disappointing on this night, certainly compared to its peers.

1996 Château Margaux: My #2 wine of the night. A really big wine with huge potential. A beautifully perfumed nose of black currant, blackberry, sous bois, violets, chocolate, leather, and tobacco. Full-bodied, with incredible complexity and concentration. Certainly well-structured, but the tannins are so soft and marry beautifully with the fruit. Very fresh acidity on the finish. Incredible length. Easily the best Margaux of the evening.


 

IMG_41961990 Château Haut-Brion: My #1 wine of the night. With the first sniff, I predicted this would be wine of the night. As good as the 1996 Margaux was, this was easily better due to its advanced level of maturity. A sexy wine that is a true stunner. An intoxicating nose of cassis, matchstick, wet gravel, barnyard, sweet tobacco, tar, and leather. Just incredible complexity. The balance is all there, with the tannins creating an exquisite mouthfeel. Acidity is in its right place. An incredibly long finish. I don’t particularly love scoring wines, but do so for my own relative reference; this is as close to 100 points as you get, in my opinion.

1995 Château Haut-Brion: It’s amazing how much younger this seems than the 1990. A shy nose that shut down in the glass. Still, there’s great fruit, chocolate, and developing tobacco and leather. Some floral notes as well. A bold wine on the palate, with firm tannins and lots of great structure. A very nice finish with high acidity. This is far from maturity, and I would give this wine at least three more years of aging.


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1995 Château Mouton Rothschild: The chameleon wine of the evening. At first, there was an enchanting nose with loads of fruit and complexity. With time, this also shut down in the glass. Lighter on the palate than the 95 Haut-Brion, but with a nice silky mouthfeel. The tannins aren’t overbearing, but there is need of more integration. Excellent concentration. Good acidity on the finish. This wine appears to be in an awkward phase, and I would probably hold off for a few years. I still feel there is great potential for this to turn into an impressive wine. Perhaps it’s showing a bit of the character of the 1995 vintage.

1982 Château Cheval Blanc: From a magnum. My #3 wine of the night. This really didn’t impress much from the get-go, but really blossomed after time in the glass. The aromatics showed nice complexity, with black currant, cherry, spice, toast, tobacco, and mocha. Medium ruby color. I really enjoyed the weight of this wine; after a few hours, at times it seemed almost Burgundian. While there are tannins left to resolve, they are ultra-soft and well-balanced. An outstanding finish with great length. While this vintage has suffered a bit in the critical scores department, this is yet another great example that there are no great wines, only great bottles.

Bordeaux Trip Overview – September 2015

Even though we had recently visited Bordeaux earlier in the summer, it was obviously hard to stay away for long. We found ourselves coming back a mere three months later. It turned out that this was a fantastic time to visit. The skies were clear. The rains abated. And fortunately for us, the harvest was just beginning. The 2015 Bordeaux vintage was just hitting its stride. 1-chateau-haut-brion-harvesting-grapes

Our trip began in St.-Émilion, where we stayed at the restaurant/B&B Logis de la Cadène. Hubert de la Boüard, owner of Château Angélus, owns this small guesthouse. For those who are aware of the fantastic restaurant, it should come as no surprise that the rooms here are top-notch. The service was also fantastic; we will definitely stay here again. Our visit here was also highlighted by a great dinner at Le Tertre, an excellent family-owned restaurant across from Logis. 

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In the Right Bank, we visited a number of properties in both St.-Émilion and Pomerol, including Clinet, La Conseillante, Petit-Village, Vieux Château Certan, Beau-Séjour Bécot, La Gaffelière, La Dominique, and Villemaurine. Echoed at most châteaux was the belief that the Merlot ripened extremely well, which should bode well for the vintage. Some even felt that the sugar ripeness was possibly a bit high and could lead to higher alcohol levels. Despite this, there was an excitement here that this vintage will easily eclipse the past four.3-chateau-la-conseillante-wine-glass-vineyard

When we reached the Médoc, the harvest was in full swing. Again, this early harvest was due to the excellent ripening of the grapes. We stopped by Château Margaux and spoke with Managing Director Paul Pontallier, who relayed his cautious optimism about the 2015 vintage. At Margaux, they were also planting a few vines in front of their new winemaking facility; these vines won’t be made into wine, however. They are going to serve as ‘reference vines’ to teach visitors about the different varietals. We visited other properties in the Médoc, including Lynch-Bages, Palmer, Phélan Ségur, and Giscours. At Palmer, Thomas Duroux was furiously moving through the vineyards, likely awaiting the upcoming harvest.

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Finally, we made it to Péssac-Léognan and Sauternes. The harvest was in full swing at Haut-Brion, which had already harvested the white grapes and had just started with the young Merlot (destined for the second wine). Château Climens in Barsac was also harvesting the beautifully botrytized grapes. We also visited La Mission Haut-Brion, Pape Clément, Guiraud, and d’Yquem. The weather throughout was just amazing, with clear azure skies contrasting with the rolling green vineyards.

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Our trip ended in the city of Bordeaux. Again we dined at Garopapilles, one of our favorite restaurants in the city. The chef here previously worked at Haut-Bailly, and the food here is consistently brilliant. We also briefly joined Jane Anson, the renowned author of numerous Bordeaux books, for a glass of wine at Le Bar à Vin. This was followed by a special dinner  at Comtoir Cuisine, where good friends Hamish Wakes-Miller of Bella Wine Tours, Ronan Laborde, and Monique Bailly joined us. Ronan is the owner of Château Clinet, which produces some of the best wines in Pomerol. Ronan and Monique brought a bottle of 1960 Château Clinet to share with us, and what a special bottle this was. 6-chateau-clinet-1960

All in all, this was a whirlwind of a trip, but what a trip it was. We covered a lot of ground, but there is so much more to cover. Until next time… 

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www.DrinkBordeauxWine.com

A Horizontal Tasting of 1970 Bordeaux

10-10-2015 A horizontal tasting of 1970 Bordeaux at Wine By the Bay, Miami1970 Bordeaux Lineup1970 has been considered by many to be the best vintage of the ‘70s. However, this is a dubious distinction, as the decade was marred by poor quality vintages. Despite that, there were some great successes in 1970, with many in Pomerol (Pétrus, Trotanoy, and La Conseillante, for example). As of 2015, the vast majority of wines have reached maturity, or have already faded. Still, it is always nice to check in on a classic Bordeaux vintage to see how everything is drinking. This tasting included only wines from the Médoc and Pessac-Léognan, but there were some impressive representatives. I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge that wines this old can vary considerably due to storage conditions. Certainly, in this tasting there were variances in fill levels (all noted in the tasting notes) that seemed to have quite an impact on the tasting experiences. How else can you explain the Prieuré-Lichine outperforming the Léoville Las Cases?


Prieure Lichine Pichon LalandeChâteau Prieuré-Lichine, the surprise wine of the night, as expectations weren’t terribly high. Base neck fill. Brick red color. Nose of cassis, raisin, fig, leather, and mint. Smooth mouthfeel. High acidity, fresh finish. Finish a bit short. Nearing end of life but still kicking. This bottle was obviously well-stored and was enjoyable. Absolutely drink now if you have this in your cellar. – 90pts

Château Pichon Lalande, top shoulder fill. Medium ruby color, lightened edges. Still nicely concentrated. Nose of red and dark fruits, barnyard, leather, and a hint of cheesiness and truffle. Lively on the palate and surprisingly tannic. Impressive long finish (the strength here). Overall very good. – 92pts


Lafite Rothschild Haut-BrionChâteau Lafite-Rothschild, very high shoulder. Really light color, almost Burgundian. An elegant delicate nose of red cherry, floral (fresh violets), asparagus, and brown spices. Very strangely, there was an unmistakable muscadine grape scent, which provided some sweetness to the nose. Soft mouthfeel, nicely balanced. Tannins essentially resolved. Medium-plus acid. Freshness on the finish. An incredibly unique Bordeaux wine. Would like to try this again, as it was hard to make sense of this. What I can say is that this was enjoyable, and one of the better wines of the evening. – 93pts

Château Haut-Brion, dark color, surprising for a 1970. An interesting nose. A little funk that blew off. Dried fig, prune, smoky earth, licorice, and eucalyptus. Big on the palate. Tannins still a bit firm. Acidity nicely balanced. Powerful. Young. Can probably hold for a bit longer, but the fruit is certainly fading. – 92pts


Chateau Margaux Las CasesChâteau Margaux, flawed. Cooked fruit. Maderized. Mid shoulder fill.

Château Léoville Las Cases, high shoulder fill. Medium ruby. Very earthy nose, a bit tired. Walks the line between dried and cooked fruits…fig, prune, bacon, old library book. Better on the palate. Somewhat powerful. Seems a little clunky. Acidic on the finish. Drink up. A disappointment. – 88 pts

Pessac-Leognan Tasting Featuring the Famed 1982 Vintage

06-26-2015 Pessac-Leognan tasting at Wine Watch, Ft. Lauderdale

There are several rules that we live by; one is to taste the 1982 Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion as many times as possible. So when we learned of a Pessac-Léognan tasting that included these two powerhouses, we were in. Tasting notes will follow, but it’s safe to say that the aforementioned wines were the best of the evening. Choosing an actual wine of the night (WOTN) isn’t so easy; the Haut-Brion wins on the nose, and the La Mission triumphs on the palate. But there were a number of other great wines…1982 La Tour Haut-Brion, 1975 Pape Clément, and a couple of Lavielle Haut-Brion blancs thrown in the mix. All in all, it was a great night.


IMG_46941985 Laville Haut-Brion:Don’t give up on this — at first appeared oxidized, but this completely went away after 30 minutes in the glass. Nose then became much sweeter…lemon curd, honeysuckle, mineral, sherry, and brown sugar. Medium length on the finish with bright acidity. Would drink soon if you have this, but it was very enjoyable tonight. 93pts

1998 Laville Haut Brion: Reticent nose of apple, pear, melon, and floral notes. A bit of a sharpness of flavor. Longer finish than the ’85. Nice overall. 91pts


IMG_46951975 La Tour Haut-Brion: Amber with significant lightening of the edges. Cassis, armchair leather, cedar, cinnamon, tobacco, and a bit of ?tomato. Smooth on the palate. Medium-plus finish. Tannins essentially fully resolved. Would drink now if I had this in my cellar. – 92pts

1975 Pape Clement: Appeared a bit oxidized initially. Cherry, black currant leaf, cooked strawberry, saddle leather, and wet earth. Tannins mostly resolved. Notable acidity. Drink now if you have this. – 88pts


IMG_46691982 Bahans Haut-Brion: Red/black fruits, leathery, cedar, and pencil. Tannins not noticeable at this point. Notable acidity. Very enjoyable, but outclassed by the others tonight. – 92pts


IMG_46591982 Haut-Brion: My WOTN (beating the ’82 LMHB and LTHB). Easily the best nose of all of the wines, just gorgeous. Black currant, licorice, leather, spice, sweet tobacco, with floral/violet notes. While the LMHB had more smoke/earthiness, this had more spiciness. Pure elegance and finesse on the palate. Excellent balance with round tannins. Still appears to be at its peak and drinking very well. -96pts

1982 La Mission Haut-Brion: Most of us picked this and the Haut-Brion, but couldn’t decide which was the HB from the LMHB. Dark ruby color. Lots of dark fruit, cassis, smoke, roses, and earthiness. Nose not as open and evolved as the ’82 Haut-Brion. Not as many tertiary notes as one would have expected; seems younger than the Haut-Brion. Really powerful and concentrated. Long, lingering finish. Excellent and still has lots of time left in the tank. – 95pts

1982 La Tour Haut-Brion: Doesn’t have the aromatic complexity of the ’82 Haut-Brion, but had more fruit on the nose than on the palate. Black currant, cedar, and leather. Tannins round but need more integration. Most impressive is the long finish. At or near its peak. – 93pts